Visionary, pioneer, liberator of women…

There are indeed as many prestigious adjectives to describe the man Yves Saint Laurent was. However, the words remain quite weak to do him justice. Numerous of books, documentaries or movies have tried, sometimes successfully, but always with a touch of fiction. Paying tribute to an artist and his love for the style, is indeed a complex exercise. But which better way then, if not the contemplation of his work? This is what the Saint Laurent Museum offers: to admire the accomplishment of the designer, by taking us along in his journey. From his early career in the Maison Dior, where he was named artistic director at only 21 years old, through his meeting with Pierre Bergé, the creation of his own Maison, passing by his democratization of women’s pants, his tributes to the great masters of painting, to finish by his tearful goodbyes on the 7th of January in 2002.

The Yves Saint Laurent Paris Museum opens the door to a whole different world. The one of Yves Saint Laurent. Rendez-vous at the 5 Avenue Marceau, in the sixteenth district, the very same place where the Maison was located, and in which the aura of the creator has remained everywhere: through his portraits of course, but also through the Haute Couture dresses, his amazing sketches, or the inspirational pictures and fabrics pinned to the wall of his studio. This same studio, where the messy desk, the glasses nonchalantly placed on the table, and the sensation of the cigarette still smoking in the ashtray, give the feeling of a full immersion into the universe of Saint Laurent. As a proof, the almost religious silence that is made as soon as you enter the room.

Everything in the museum is made to make visitors feel strong and mixed emotions. Being so close to the creator, through real relics of his daily life can only amaze any good fashion lover. More than the sense of wonder, it is a sense of nostalgia that comes over you when you contemplate the famous Mondrian dress, most copied dress in the world, or the « smocking trousers suit » designed in 1966, when only a few women had the audacity to wear pants at work. The nostalgia to think that an era is now over, wondering if someday, a creator will be as innovative and precursory as Yves Saint Laurent. Throughout his life, Yves Saint Laurent has worked for the women. What he loved above all? Make them beautiful, make them unique. His boundless creativity led him to develop outfits that not only revolutionized ladies’ dress, but also established

some of the basics of modern women’s wardrobe. By borrowing the clothes of men to slide them on the shoulders of women, Saint Laurent spread his message well beyond the circles of regulars of Haute Couture.

« Chanel has often been said to have liberated women, it’s true, years later, Saint Laurent gave them the power, and that’s why his work goes beyond the work of a fashion designer », said Pierre Bergé, the companion of the creator and co-founder of the Maison, whom the museum also pays a great tribute to. A fifteen minutes very moving film shows rare pictures of the creator, commented by the person who knew him better. Anecdotes, but also restored facts and proofs of their unconditional love, little things that make their romance a legendary love story, are delivered to the visitors through this movie. Let’s recall that it is the wish of Pierre Bergé to create this museum, to report the work of the couturier. More than a way to pay tribute to him, it is also a way to present the true personality of Saint Laurent to the visitors. This is more moving to know that Pierre Bergé unfortunately missed by only a few weeks the opportunity to discover the museum and to see how the story of Saint Laurent is making generations of people dreaming. « I wish that in 100 years, one studies my dresses, my drawings. » said Yves Saint Laurent once. It is undoubtedly the case.

 

Megane GORI – Sidonie LAEBENS – Helene RIGOUT

#efapmbaluxe #decodingluxury

An emotional farewell

The influential Parisian boutique Colette, also known as one of the trendiest stores in the world, has announced it will be closing in December 2017. Rumor has it that Yves Saint Laurent might be taking over this trendy spot after it is closed.

This family business started in 1997, when a mother, owner of a retail shop in the center of Paris decided to work with her daughter, recently graduated from l’École du Louvre. Together, they opened the doors of a multi-brand store located at 213 rue Saint-Honoré in Paris. As the years passed, the blue dots concept store became the first meeting point between fashion, design, music, perfume, photography and high technology in Paris. Through their cutting-edge selection, one discovers the spirit of the Brand defined by its reactivity, determination, passion, vision and spontaneity.

Over the years, rue Saint Honoré has become one of the most sought-after streets in the capital thanks to the presence of high-end and luxury stores which have contributed in the upgrading of the street. The neighborhood indeed offers a luxurious setting to its international and diverse clientele and has grown to become a landmark for fashion figures such as Karl Lagerfeld who wrote, saddened by the announcement of the boutique’s closing: “Colette was really part of the street. Today, rue Saint Honoré will become a banal shopping artery. It was a unique place in the world, there was an atmosphere like nowhere else”. The sudden announcement leaves every collaborator and customer with a bittersweet taste.

Colette has multiplied collaborations with a host of different types of partners, with both major and smaller brands as well as establishing creative partnerships with upcoming businesses in Europe, including Balenciaga, Lacoste, H&M, Chanel, New Balance and even Ikea.

What the interior designer and former collaborator Eric Chevalier mostly remembers and cherishes about Colette is the family spirit “I started with Colette when I was 19. I was a baby and she taught me because she trusts people, young people. Obviously, I have known about the closing for a while, but I am now starting to realize, by hearing all the reactions to this news, what France is about to lose. As well as for all the fashion brands which have been supported and challenged by Colette for the past twenty years. This decision reflects the image of the brand, they did not want to leave their baby in the hands of anyone else. They are like celebrities saying goodbye in full glory and inspiring new generations.”

Despite the undeniable success and unforgettable stories that have been written, this emotional farewell has left all of Colettes followers wondering if all good things must come to an end?

by Elwine Barthelemy – Samia Boutayeb – Isabelle Crétat – Kenza Oweiss – Alexia Toury – Charlotte Waldelöf

#decodingluxury #efapmbaluxe

2, Place Vendôme

« Louis XIV voulait un lieu grandiose pour incarner le pouvoir absolu au cœur de Paris. »

Louis XIV (LE ROI SOLEIL), makes a strong comeback at Place Vendôme in a whole different form with Louis Vuitton. The Place Vendôme, royal place surrounded by French jewelers and international symbols of luxury, has recently witnessed the arrival of the Maison Louis Vuitton new flagship store provided with one of the most sumptuous facades to highlight its glory and standing as grand as the Sun. Louis Vuitton is the ultimate gem of the Place Vendôme.

With this huge flagship, Louis Vuitton wanted to combine royalty and modernity of the 21st century. Mission accomplished by the famous architect Peter Marino who took care of the interior design of the store by joining two private mansions, with one goal in mind: make the House the heart of modern luxury. To do so, he created a subtle mix between the 18th century charm and contemporary artworks, that we can find over the five floors of the boutique.

This store gathers every sector of expertise Louis Vuitton masters: from leather goods to high jewelry, and from ready-to-wear to perfumery. The brand, which owns a know-how in numerous fields, is multifaceted, such a diamond, shining even more on the Place Vendôme. But the House does not stop there. Indeed, some unique pieces, such as The Library Trunk especially created by Gaston Louis Vuitton for Ernest Hemingway, is also being displayed. This space named « Maison Louis Vuitton Vendôme » is also home to two ateliers: the first one is dedicated to high jewelry, whereas the other one will be exclusively used for the fittings of the very important clients and prestigious VIP friends of the House. A secret VIP apartment is even hidden on the second floor of the boutique.

It is then important to know that this place was not only intended to shop. The House Louis Vuitton wanted to share its passion for dreaming and traveling over time to its clients, in a very symbolic location, that offers a return to the roots of the brand and to French nobility.

Besides the grandiosity of this location, this is also a real tribute to Louis Vuitton himself, whom you can find the portrait on the ground floor of the boutique. In 1854, Louis Vuitton was opening his very first business not far from the famous Place, this boutique is therefore a wink to the heritage he left behind him.

This last boutique is an actual master stroke from one of the greatest in its sector, but we all know that the House will not stop there, and its success is limitless.

We can ask ourselves what will be the next move for Louis Vuitton to show its worldwide domination and brightness in the luxury sector?

#efapmbaluxe #decodingLuxury #Vendome #LouisVuitton #TheSunKing #FrenchLuxury

Louise AMSELLEM – Inès ARROUGÉ – Morgan DAHMANI – Coralie DELAMAISON

A new perfume experience in Paris

Perfume has been a mystery for centuries, creation and olfaction remaining enigmatic to people even though 90% of French people wear fragrances daily according to the Fragrance Foundation.

In ancient civilizations, perfumes were made without alcohol or distillation, with fragrant oils and ointments, as well as « incense » which gives pleasant scents. Their ingredients were crushed, mixed and cooked together for a long time. In medieval times, the perfume industry declined. As the Crusaders returned from their distant expeditions to the Orient, they brought cosmetics and scents back with them. Arabs are credited with ancient knowledge of the subject. At the Age of Enlightenment, perfumery boomed in the 18th century. People abandoned animal scents in favor of more subtle creations, that is how Cologne was born. Through these ages, the perfume industry has collected more and more data about the scents.

Le Grand Musée du Parfum was purposely created to promote the perfume history and the art of olfaction. Set in Maison Christian Lacroix’s former headquarters, it has found its vocation: to present the heritage of perfume through art and to make the visitors get a multisensorial experience. The aim is not just looking at displays but to feel them through the smell and to discover how this sense is often underestimated. Throughout the visit of the museum, anecdotes are given to the visitor according to the section he/she is seeing, such as a rose that protecting itself with its smell and not its thorns.

Thanks to the 5 million olfactive neurons every human being has, visitors can test their nose and therefore to be aware of their smelling sense and to enjoy it through the different animations the museum is offering.

In a 1400 square-meter mansion on three floors, rue Saint Honoré, you will breathe the fragrance in all its forms through modern methods, in a total white decor.

In the Seduction Gallery, 7 stories of fictional or real couples are revealed, in which perfume plays a determining role, such as the story of Cleopatra and Mark Anthony. A vaulted room reveals perfumes with protective, curative or rejuvenating properties. Flasks illustrate the reconciliation of couture and perfume in 1930.

On the first floor, pears make it possible to inhale the smells and a bouquet of roses opens the door of perfume chemistry. This is the natural smell of the rose, consisting of 400 molecules and replaced by 3 elements of synthesis in the laboratory.  You will find the connection amongst smells and feelings, how our memory remembers scents. Holograms guide you from its reception to the brain to that of the nostrils.

Travel through the Garden of Scents, which picks through presence sensors figurative perfumes. Test your olfactory memory on the Sofa of Confidences. Interactive terminals encourage you to play riddles, to recognize ginger, pepper or even horse. The 3rd floor is a tribute to the art of perfumery. You can take in hand one of the 25 spheres containing a raw material of perfumery. On screens, perfume masters respond to received ideas or questions that the public asks.

Origins, secrets of creation, the chemistry of odors, profession of perfumer, the perfume has now its museum in Paris. Through a fun and multisensory course, the museum offers the public to learn and test their olfactory abilities while having fun. Discover this modern and elegant place, located rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, in front of Le Bristol.

 “A woman’s perfume tells more about her than her handwriting” Christian Dior

 Manon LEPEU – Emma-Lou MARCQ – Charlotte PORTET – Laura TEAI

#legrandmuséeduparfum #perfumeindustry #Paris #decodingluxury #efapmbaluxe

Triangle d’Or

One upon a time, far away in Ancient Egypt, great funerary monuments, the pyramids, were built to bury Pharaohs and wealthy Egyptians in luxurious sarcophagus with their luxurious belongings. The great pyramids of Giza were one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Once upon a time in Paris, the capital of luxury, in the end of the 18th century, wealthy Parisian families decided to settle in the west of Paris, in a triangle district called the Golden triangle.

The Golden triangle, nowadays the temple of luxurious brands, reminds us of the shape of the pyramids, the tombs and temples of the pharaons.

Who are the kings of Paris Golden Triangle? Which treasures does the Parisian Triangle hide?

The Golden triangle, also called the sublime triangle, is in Paris’s 8th Arrondissement between three of Paris’s most famous avenues: The Avenue des Champs-Élysées, the Avenue Montaigne, and the Avenue George V. A world of elegance and refinement, in the poshest district of the capital, renowned for its luxury shopping, legendary hotels and restaurants.

The mythical avenue of the Champs-Elysées, a display of luxury and wealth, is the most beautiful and one of the most expensive avenues in the world. It was named in reference to the place where the Greek heroes lived according to the Greek mythology. Once a swampy land, Les Champs-Elysées is studded with high-end boutiques like Louis Vuitton, fashion houses, and some of the city’s most iconic sites like the Arc de Triomphe and the Place de la Concorde with its ancient Egyptian obelisk. It attracts one of the world’s most glamorous crowds.

The Avenue Montaigne, absolute incarnation of luxury, is twinned since 1967 with Madison Avenue in New York. This once-gritty street, used to be called “l’allée des veuves” – literally the alley of widows – is lined now with luxury shop stores. Christian Dior, the visionary, was the first to open its boutique in 1946 to attract rich customers of the Plaza Athénée hotel. The other big Maisons followed him: Chanel, Gucci, Céline, Louis Vuitton, Fendi among others mostly belonging to the LVMH group, one of the biggest property owners. However, some big French families still have apartments in avenue Montaigne.

The third Avenue of the Golden triangle, The Avenue George V, was named after the King of England, to pay tribute to the France’s ally during the First World War. It’s one of the most prestigious avenues in Paris. The Avenue hosts luxury boutiques as well as luxurious palaces and restaurants like “L’Hôtel George V”, famous palace of the capital with its art deco style, and the Prince de Galles Hotel that welcomed people like Winston Churchill and Marlène Diedrich, Charles Laughton, Dalida. A step further, the Crazy Horse, one of the most famous cabaret of Paris.

As royal and luxurious as the pharaohs’ pyramids in Egypt, the Golden triangle is Paris luxury treasure, the fruit of a long meticulous and patient craftsmen’s work. May it be lasting and eternal like the pyramids, to make the renewal of Paris and to make it shine again and again through the centuries.

Nada GHANTOUS, Clémence LEFEBVRE, Bruno MOREAU, Julien PORTE

#triangledor #efapmbaluxe #decodingluxury

 

 

 

Couturier du rêve

One of the most notorious fashion designers of all time opened his first shop at 30 Avenue Montaigne in Paris, 70 years ago. Few years later, he succeeded in creating and giving a unique and iconic silhouette to women.

Over the past decades, six very privileged and talented artistic directors were able to follow his footsteps and perpetuate the heritage left by the man we called “the Prince of fashion”.

 

“The Dream maker”

For the Maison’s anniversary, Dior and the Musée des Arts Décoratifs honor this genius fashion designer, as well as his « descendants », Yves Saint-Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons and Maria Grazia Churri. The name of the exhibition, Christian Dior, couturier du rêve, refers to the mythical image of the brand as well as the spectacular decor set up in the museum.

The surprising path, proposed by the two commissioners Florence Müller and Olivier Gabet, takes us through the history and the universe of the Maison, from 1947 to nowadays, with a stunning and moving scenography. This romantic, nearly magical atmosphere of Christian Dior enchants the well-known Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Indeed, as soon as we enter, the revamped entrance gives the visitors the mystical feeling of entering in the famous 30 Avenue Montaigne.

In this exhibition, paintings that Christian Dior liked, mingle with fashion pictures, extracts, reports, and many sketches that inspired his creations are not to be missed. The pleasure to see the iconic and instantly recognizable Gris Montaigne as well as all the emblematic colors of the Maison like red or pink can be seen in a staggering display of colors in a room where shoes, bags and dresses are all organized chromatically. Flowers like the rose, lily of the valley or many fabrics such as silk, lace, taffetas, organza enhance the astonishing scenography making the visit interactive and poetic.

But what truly marveled the visitors were these hundreds of dresses designed by all these artistic directors who contributed to build the international reputation of the Maison Christian Dior and will continue to transmit Dior’s legacy to the generations to come.

Welcome to Wonderland

The visitor travels through time and Christian Dior’s fashion by immersing himself in vestiges of the past and rare pieces of the brand’s archives. While plunged in the dark to admire the famous “Tailleur Bar” of 1947, among other objects belonging to the creator. Mixing antiques with technology, the visitor is invited to “push” virtual buttons on the wall to make details of the couturier’s life appear. Then, he will be dazzled by pure white prototypes of the Maison in a bright room, as if he was entering in the Dior paradise. However, it is upon arriving in the nave of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs that the true magic takes place, with a rich spectacle of light, music and dresses.

Thirty unique and breathtaking pieces of the creator are brought back to life with an amazing play on lights making way for a true firework of emotions: a shower of gold sparkles drizzling on the walls and the priceless Renaissance paintings. A pure delight, all in the name of Christian Dior.

For several months, the exhibition fascinated over 380,000 visitors. The dream continues until January 7th, 2018. So tell your friends, whether they are curious amateurs or fashion enthusiasts.

« Au fond de chaque coeur sommeille un rêve, et le couturier le sait : chaque femme est une princesse. »

Written by Alexandre Pierotin, Camille Dorvidal, Tamara Cavin, Alice Brandicourt, Antoine Erwes and Laura Pianko

#decodingluxury #efapmbaluxe

Colette, the end of an era

Colette, the woman

Insiders call her only by her first name, Colette, also known as Colette Rousseaux, is the creator of the concept store of the same name. Daughter of a fishmonger, then wholesaler of ready-to-wear clothing in the 1980s, she opened the mythical concept store 20 years ago. Her name is adulated by hyped people and venerated by fashionistas around the word, but Colette has always been anonymous. We don’t know anything about her, or almost nothing, not even the face. Helped by her daughter Sarah Andelman who is the new artistic director of the store, they form a duo as discreet as accomplice.

Colette, the concept store

Located at “13 rue Saint-Honoré”, Colette is today considered as the temple of the fashion world. The concept store, spread out more than 700m², became the meeting point of fashion, fragrance, music, and publishing sectors. Colette distinguish itself thanks to its avant-gardist, original and exclusive products, but also through its sensory marketing, which enhances the quality of the customer experience in store.

Our experience at Colette

We went to this iconic temple, but taking videos at Colette was complicated. It is possible to film the store globally but when we wanted to zoom on some products, the seller explained to us that it’s forbidden for security reasons. During our visit, we discovered the last collaboration of the store with Chanel. For 20 years, Colette has collaborated with many brands and celebrities, such as Dior, Ikea, Pharell Williams, H&M… Unfortunately, all good things must come to an end.

The end

Colette announced on her Instagram account last July 12th its final closure during the month of December 2017. The news was like a bomb for Internet users who imagined an eternal success for Colette. But “Colette Rousseaux comes to the age where it is time to take her time. And Colette can’t exist without Colette.” The concept store whose the name sounds more than ever today, says that negotiations are in progress for the recovery of this iconic place by Saint Laurent.

Anna, Leslie, Diane and Margot

#efapmbaluxe #decodingluxury

Place Vendôme

The « Saint of Saints », « high place of creation in the world » or « temple of luxury “; praises do not lack to describe the famous and prestigious Place Vendôme in Paris. The high jewelry square is greatly known across the world. This gem gathers the quintessence of jewelry and watchmaking. Nonetheless, is the history of the Place Vendôme truly known and cared about?

Focus on the lively history of a Place that was initially not meant to such a promising future.

The story of the Place Vendôme dates to the reign of Louis XIV. In 1699, Jules-Hardouin Mansart, official architect of Versailles, designed it to put the equestrian statue of the Sun King right in the center. In 1805, Napoleon won the famous battle of Austerlitz. He replaced the column of Louis XIV by the Vendôme Column. It was built from the bronze of the enemy’s cannons. At the top of the structure, he installed his statue. During Paris Commune, the monument fell next to a crowd who came to see the column as a symbol of « brute force and false glory. » It was eventually restored in 1875. The Vendome Column was therefore a way to express the legitimacy and power of Napoleon, a way to glorify the image of France and a way to flatter his pride.

With such a reputation, how did the Place Vendôme manage to reverse the situation and to convert itself to luxury?

Jewelers used to settle in the Palais Royal, near the power. The Place Vendôme, at this point, was exclusively exploited by the beautiful hotels nearby. But 1893 became a turning point for the square with the arrival of the first jeweler, Frédéric Boucheron.

The success of his settling in inspired his jewelry colleagues who opened their first boutiques in the Place Vendôme: Cartier, Chaumet, Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin, and so on, progressively moved there themselves. This wave of newcomers continued with prestigious watchmakers such as Piaget, Chopard or Rolex, as well as major fashion Houses that follow a strategy of diversification (e.g. Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Dior). This craze for the Place Vendôme turned it into the focal point of French High Jewelry. Within a few decades, it became unnecessary to justify the legitimacy of a brand, from the moment they had a store in the Place Vendôme. Beyond its name changes, the identity of the Place Vendôme has therefore evolved a lot throughout history.

How could the Place Vendôme’s identity be described today?

Nowadays, the square and its surroundings have an interesting paradigm. Everything about the Place Vendôme is discreet. Jewelers and watchmakers isolate themselves, away from the rest of society and work quite discretely. They let themselves be desired and wait for customers to take an interest for them. We know where they are. We know what they are doing. Customers travel expressly from the other side of the world to go to the Place Vendôme and buy their jewels. Of course, they do it in an inconspicuous way. The jewels express themselves; they become a source of emotion.

Paradoxically, the Place Vendôme seems to be a bit ostentatious. The Louis Vuitton House which opened last October is a good example of that. At the exit of the Malletier’s House, visitors continue their excursion. They enjoy the setting, the stroll, they take the time to discover and admire the jeweler’s shop windows. The story told in the shop windows capture their attention and fascinates them. They take the time to dawdle on this theatrical poetry and let their imagination go as pleased. They take pretty pictures to capture the moment, to capture this experience that they just lived, before going back to their daily routine. The ambivalence of the Place Vendôme allows to bring together different social stratifications around a common base that is simply, luxury.

Arthiya Mohan, Ines Paulin, Sarah Djegaoud, and Aurore Picq

#efapmbaluxe #decodingluxury

YSL Museum

Unlike​ ​other​ ​current​ ​Luxury​ ​brands​ ​exhibitions​ ​like​ ​Dior​ ​or​ ​Hermès,​ ​Yves​ ​Saint​ ​Laurent​ ​has its​ ​own​ ​museum.​ ​Located​ ​in​ ​the​ ​heart​ ​of​ ​the​ ​Maison YSL,​ ​where “the​ ​magic​ ​happened”.​ ​Indeed,​ ​the​ ​museum​ ​is​ ​located​ ​in​ ​a​ ​19th​ ​century​ ​house,​ ​5​ ​Avenue Marceau,​ 75008 Paris ​where​ ​Mr. Yves​ ​Saint​ ​Laurent​ ​used​ ​to​ ​have​ ​his​ ​workshops​ ​until​ ​he​ ​decided​ ​to​ ​stop​ ​his career​ ​in​ ​2002,​ ​leading​ ​to​ ​the​ ​shutdown​ ​of​ ​the​ ​Haute​ ​Couture​ ​Maison.​ ​As​ ​for​ ​a​ ​fact,​ ​Pierre Bergé,​ ​founder​ ​of​ ​the​ ​museum​ ​and​ ​lifetime​ ​companion​ ​of​ ​YSL,​ ​preserved​ ​the​ ​office​ ​exactly as​ ​it​ ​was​ ​when​ ​YSL​ ​was​ ​alive.​ ​You​ ​can​ ​still​ ​see​ ​his​ ​glasses​ ​on​ ​the​ ​desk​ ​and​ ​his​ ​dog​ ​Moujik’s bowl​ ​on​ ​the​ ​floor.

“We​ ​are​ ​full​ ​of​ ​memories​ ​in​ ​the​ ​form​ ​of​ ​5000​ ​clothes​ ​and​ ​100​ ​000​ ​sketches. ​ ​We​ ​want​ ​to transform​ ​those​ ​memories​ ​into​ ​a​ ​project”, ​ ​said​ ​the​ ​companion​ ​of​ ​YSL​ ​in a press release, ​ ​in​ ​June​ ​2017.

“In​ ​a​ ​100​ ​years, ​ ​I’d​ ​like​ ​my​ ​dresses​ ​and​ ​sketches​ ​to​ ​be​ ​studied” ​ ​YSL​ ​(1992). Yves​ ​Saint​ ​Laurent’s​ ​wish​ ​came​ ​true​ ​last​ ​October​ ​when​ ​the​ ​museum​ ​opened​ ​its​ ​doors​ ​to​ ​the public. Entering​ ​the​ ​museum​ ​is​ ​like​ ​stepping​ ​into​ ​YSL’s​ ​brain. ​ ​You​ ​can​ ​walk​ ​in​ ​his​ ​footsteps​ ​and discover​ ​all​ ​his​ ​main​ ​inspirations​ ​to​ ​create​ ​his​ ​collections.​ ​YSL​ ​said​ ​​“My​ ​most​ ​beautiful travels,​ ​I​ ​did​ ​them​ ​through​ ​books,​ ​on​ ​my​ ​sofa,​ ​in​ ​my​ ​living​ ​room”​.

Pierre​ ​Bergé​ ​used​ ​to​ ​say​ ​​ “Fashion​ ​is​ ​not​ ​an​ ​art,​ ​but​ ​you​ ​need​ ​an​ ​artist​ ​to​ ​create​ ​it”​. From​ ​Russia​ ​to​ ​Africa, ​ ​YSL’s​ ​collections​ ​are​ ​rich​ ​in​ ​colors,​ ​exotic shapes​ ​and​ ​original volumes.​ ​His goal​ ​was​ ​always​ ​to​ ​create​ ​dreams​ ​through​ ​each​ ​model.​ ​Travels,​ ​history,​ ​arts…​ ​Yves​ ​Saint Laurent​ ​was​ ​never​ ​short​ ​on​ ​ideas​ ​to​ ​make​ ​each​ ​collection​ ​even​ ​more​ ​exceptional​ ​than​ ​the previous​ ​one.

Even​ ​if​ ​most​ ​of​ ​YSL’s​ ​work​ ​was​ ​done​ ​from​ ​his​ ​Parisian​ ​studio, ​ ​his​ ​heart​ ​remains​ ​in​ ​the Majorelle​ ​gardens,​ ​in​ ​Marrakech.​ ​In​ ​fact,​ ​it​ ​only​ ​makes​ ​sense​ ​that​ ​Pierre​ ​Bergé​ ​chose​ ​to open​ ​the​ ​second​ ​museum​ ​in​ ​the​ ​city​ ​that​ ​brought​ ​YSL​ ​so​ ​much​ ​happiness​ ​and​ ​creativity.  Much​ ​bigger​ ​than​ ​the​ ​Parisian​ ​museum,​ ​the​ ​one​ ​in​ ​Marrakech​ ​also​ ​contains​ ​a​ ​5000-book-library and​ ​a​ ​space​ ​for​ ​temporary​ ​exhibitions​ ​exclusively​ ​dedicated​ ​to​ ​Majorelle’s​ ​work​ ​that​ ​inspired YSL​ ​a​ ​lot.​ ​Saint-Laurent​ ​used​ ​to​ ​spend​ ​two​ ​weeks​ ​in​ ​Marrakech​ ​in​ ​June​ ​and​ ​December,​ ​each year,​ ​as​ ​he​ ​said​ ​it​ ​was​ ​the​ ​best​ ​place​ ​for​ ​him​ ​to​ ​create​ ​his​ ​new​ ​collection.​ ​YSL​ ​and​ ​Pierre Bergé’s​ ​Moroccan​ ​house​ ​was​ ​their​ ​safe​ ​haven.​ ​A​ ​place​ ​to​ ​escape​ ​and​ ​create​ ​in​ ​an​ ​exotic environment​ ​far​ ​from​ ​the​ ​Parisian​ ​craziness​ ​between​ ​two​ ​collections.

“A​ ​living​ ​place​ ​about​ ​fashion​ ​and​ ​art”,​ ​this​ ​is​ ​what​ ​Pierre​ ​Bergé​ ​wanted​ ​to​ ​create​ ​with​ ​the​ ​two museums,​ ​showing all the painters that​ ​inspired​ ​YSL​ ​for​ ​his​ ​collections.​ ​Indeed, YSL​ ​was​ ​the​ ​first​ ​designer​ ​to​ ​link​ ​​art​ ​to​ ​​fashion​ ​with​ ​his​ ​famous​ ​dress​ ​which​ ​draws from​ ​Mondrian’s​ ​painting​ ​“Composition​ ​en​ ​rouge,​ ​jaune,​ ​bleu​ ​et​ ​noir”.​ ​Thereafter,​ ​YSL used​ ​the​ ​works​ ​of​ ​Henri​ ​Matisse,​ ​Claude​ ​Monet​ ​or​ ​even​ ​Georges​ ​Braque…​ ​All​ ​the​ ​forms,​ ​the colors​ ​and​ ​the​ ​textures​ ​benefitted​ ​the​ ​designer​ ​to​ ​create​ ​his​ ​unique​ ​pieces​ ​of​ ​fashion.

From​ ​next​ ​year, ​ ​the​ ​two​ ​museums​ ​will​ ​welcome​ ​temporary​ ​exhibitions. ​ ​The​ ​first​ ​one​ ​in​ ​Paris will​ ​be​ ​an​ ​exhibition​ ​on​ ​art​ ​and​ ​fashion​ ​as​ ​YSL​ ​wanted​ ​to​ ​offer…

Camille Dubré, Clémence Toubel, Léa Bourdillat, Elise Anastasio, and Coline Gauci

#efapmbaluxe #decodingluxury

The complexity of luxury

Acoording to Domenico​ ​de​ ​Sole, ​ ​former​ ​CEO​ ​of​ ​Gucci​​: “Luxury​ ​is​ ​the​ ​balance​ ​of​ ​design, ​ ​in​ ​the​ ​sense​ ​of beauty​ ​and​ ​highest​ ​quality.” ​When​ ​people​ ​think​ ​about​ ​luxury, ​it​ ​is​ ​always​ ​about​ ​high​ ​quality. In​ ​our​ ​opinion,​ ​luxury​ ​is​ ​more​ ​complex; ​ ​it​ ​is​ ​about​ ​craftsmanship, ​​excellence, dream​ ​and​ ​time.
The​ ​notion​ ​of​ ​craftsmanship​ ​is​ ​mainly​ ​associated​ ​to​ ​the​ ​luxury​ ​market​ ​thanks​ ​to​ ​its​ ​idea​ ​of quality,​ ​know-how​ ​and​ ​traditions.​ ​Heritage​ ​techniques​ ​are​ ​in​ ​the​ ​center​ ​of​ ​luxury​ ​brands’ communication​ ​:​ ​Dior​ ​and​ ​Grasse,​ ​Jaeger-LeCoultre​ ​and​ ​the​ ​Ateliers​ ​des​ ​Métiers​ ​Rares…  Even​ ​though​ ​many​ ​brands​ ​communicate​ ​about​ ​their​ ​traditions,​ ​not​ ​many​ ​immerse​ ​the​ ​public into​ ​the​ ​reality​ ​of​ ​their​ ​daily​ ​work.​ ​For​ ​example,​ ​with​ ​the​ ​runway​ ​show​ ​Chanel​ ​Métiers​ ​d’Art, this​ ​iconic​ ​brand​ ​pays​ ​tribute​ ​to​ ​the​ ​artisans​ ​that​ ​offer​ ​their​ ​talents​ ​to​ ​the​ ​Maison.​ ​By organizing​ ​the​ ​show​ ​outside​ ​the​ ​traditional​ ​fashion​ ​schedule,​ ​Chanel​ ​highlights​ ​the​ ​work​ ​of its​ ​ateliers​ ​and​ ​allows​ ​the​ ​public​ ​to​ ​appreciate​ ​the​ ​true​ ​value​ ​of​ ​handcrafted​ ​fashion.
More​ ​than​ ​a​ ​quality​ ​guarantee,​ ​craftsmanship​ ​is​ ​fully​ ​linked​ ​with​ ​the​ ​notion​ ​of​ ​exclusivity​ ​that build​ ​all​ ​the​ ​prestige​ ​of​ ​luxury.​ ​According​ ​to​ ​Elisabeth​ ​Ponsolle​ ​des​ ​Portes​ ​(Comité​ ​Colbert’s Chief​ ​Delegate)​ ​luxury​ ​is​ ​about​ ​“passion​ ​and​ ​requirement”.​ ​No​ ​matter​ ​the​ ​sector​ ​(fashion, hospitality,​ ​jewelry),​ ​the​ ​product​ ​or​ ​service​ ​needs​ ​to​ ​be​ ​perfectly​ ​nursed,​ ​as​ ​the​ ​customer demand​ ​has​ ​nothing​ ​to​ ​compare​ ​with​ ​other​ ​markets.​ ​That​ ​being​ ​said,​ ​some​ ​imperfections could​ ​be​ ​the​ ​proof​ ​of​ ​a​ ​handmade​ ​realization​ ​and​ ​as​ ​well​ ​as​ ​a​ ​guarantee​ ​of​ ​authenticity​ ​and uniqueness.​ ​Uniqueness​ ​represents​ ​a​ ​major​ ​factor​ ​of​ ​luxury​ ​customers​ ​demand,​ ​as​ ​it​ ​is​ ​part of​ ​the​ ​“dream”​ ​that​ ​a​ ​luxury​ ​product​ ​embodies.​ ​However,​ ​we​ ​can​ ​notice​ ​some​ ​exception​ ​to the​ ​rule​ ​for​ ​few​ ​products​ ​as​ ​the​ ​“Neverfull”​ ​bag​ ​of​ ​Louis​ ​Vuitton​ ​as​ ​it​ ​is​ ​no​ ​more​ ​exclusive​ ​nor rare​ ​but​ ​it​ ​remains​ ​a​ ​must​ ​have.
Making people dreaming and living unforgettable experiences is another characteristic that is associated to luxury. Indeed, the story, the dream and the emotions are as much important as the product itself and luxury brands understood it. Today, the luxury clients seek to feel emotions and to live experiences that only luxury can provide. Sitting in a comfortable armchair, being offered champagne and advising in the privacy of a cozy lounge made the purchase​ ​of​ ​a​ ​watch​ ​or​ ​a​ ​jewel​ ​an​ ​unforgettable​ ​experience​ ​and​ ​memory.  French​ ​luxury​ ​has​ ​become​ ​a​ ​master​ ​of​ ​dreams​ ​and​ ​emotions​ ​because​ ​the​ ​French​ ​Maisons have,​ ​above​ ​all,​ ​a​ ​History.​ ​Chanel​ ​would​ ​not​ ​be​ ​Chanel​ ​without​ ​the​ ​Camellia,​ ​the​ ​pearls,​ ​or the​ ​magical​ ​story​ ​of​ ​Gabrielle​ ​Chanel.​ ​The​ ​watchword​ ​of​ ​the​ ​famous​ ​French​ ​Maison​ ​is​ ​to make​ ​thousands​ ​of​ ​people​ ​dreaming​ ​to​ ​show​ ​them​ ​the​ ​refinement​ ​of​ ​Christian​ ​Dior​ ​and​ ​Yves Saint​ ​Laurent​ ​country.
As​ ​Tom​ ​Ford​ ​said,​ ​«​ ​Time​ ​and​ ​silence​ ​are​ ​the​ ​most​ ​luxurious​ ​things​ ​today​ ​»​.​ ​​French​ ​Luxury brands​ ​are​ ​mostly​ ​admired​ ​for​ ​their​ ​long-lasting​ ​history​ ​which​ ​gives​ ​them​ ​a​ ​certain​ ​legitimacy and​ ​influence.​ ​For​ ​a​ ​luxury​ ​brand,​ ​time​ ​is​ ​essential.​ ​Iconic​ ​products​ ​like​ ​the​ ​Burberry​ ​Trench Coat,​ ​initially​ ​created​ ​as​ ​a​ ​military​ ​coat​ ​for​ ​soldiers,​ ​prove​ ​that​ ​time​ ​can​ ​make​ ​your​ ​product even​ ​more​ ​valuable​ ​than​ ​it​ ​was​ ​in​ ​the​ ​first​ ​place.​ ​By​ ​reinventing​ ​and​ ​modernizing​ ​their products,​ ​luxury​ ​brands​ ​show​ ​that​ ​time​ ​is​ ​a​ ​strength.​ ​Wealthy​ ​clients​ ​show​ ​a​ ​real​ ​interest​ ​for heritage​ ​and​ ​tradition​ ​in​ ​French​ ​luxury.​ ​They​ ​are​ ​willing​ ​to​ ​wait​ ​quite​ ​a​ ​long​ ​time​ ​to​ ​possess an​ ​exceptional​ ​luxury​ ​piece.​ ​We​ ​can​ ​take​ ​for​ ​example​ ​the​ ​Hermès​ ​Birkin​ ​Bag​ ​and​ ​the​ long waiting list.​ ​Time​ ​is​ ​patience​ ​and​ ​exigence.​ ​The​ ​more​ ​you​ ​wait,​ ​the​ ​more satisfying​ ​it​ ​will​ ​be​ ​when​ ​you​ ​finally​ ​obtain​ ​this​ ​precious​ ​product.​ ​Time​ ​and​ ​know-how​ ​are linked.​ ​The​ ​wait​ ​for​ ​a​ ​product​ ​can​ ​be​ ​explained​ ​by​ ​the​ ​use​ ​of​ ​rare​ ​materials​ ​and​ ​by craftsmanship.​ ​So​ ​luxury​ ​is​ ​based​ ​on​ ​modernity​ ​and​ ​heritage.
Although​ ​time, ​ ​craftsmanship, ​ ​exclusivity​ ​and​ ​dream​ ​define​ ​the​ ​luxury​ ​well,​ ​luxury​ ​is​ ​a complex​ ​concept​ ​and​ ​its​ ​perception​ ​is​ ​subjective.​ ​With​ ​the​ ​Millennials​ ​generation​ ​who​ ​tends to​ ​get​ ​bored​ ​faster​ ​than​ ​others,​ ​the​ ​luxury​ ​will​ ​maybe​ ​develop​ ​others​ ​characteristics​ ​that​ ​will fit​ ​new​ ​client’s​ ​expectations.
By Clémence TOUBEL,​ ​Coline GAUCI,​ ​Léa BOURDILLAT,​ ​Camille DUBRE​ ​and ​ ​Elise ANASTASIO

#efapmbaluxe #decodingluxury