LEMEURICE

The complexity of luxury

Acoording to Domenico​ ​de​ ​Sole, ​ ​former​ ​CEO​ ​of​ ​Gucci​​: “Luxury​ ​is​ ​the​ ​balance​ ​of​ ​design, ​ ​in​ ​the​ ​sense​ ​of beauty​ ​and​ ​highest​ ​quality.” ​When​ ​people​ ​think​ ​about​ ​luxury, ​it​ ​is​ ​always​ ​about​ ​high​ ​quality. In​ ​our​ ​opinion,​ ​luxury​ ​is​ ​more​ ​complex; ​ ​it​ ​is​ ​about​ ​craftsmanship, ​​excellence, dream​ ​and​ ​time.
The​ ​notion​ ​of​ ​craftsmanship​ ​is​ ​mainly​ ​associated​ ​to​ ​the​ ​luxury​ ​market​ ​thanks​ ​to​ ​its​ ​idea​ ​of quality,​ ​know-how​ ​and​ ​traditions.​ ​Heritage​ ​techniques​ ​are​ ​in​ ​the​ ​center​ ​of​ ​luxury​ ​brands’ communication​ ​:​ ​Dior​ ​and​ ​Grasse,​ ​Jaeger-LeCoultre​ ​and​ ​the​ ​Ateliers​ ​des​ ​Métiers​ ​Rares…  Even​ ​though​ ​many​ ​brands​ ​communicate​ ​about​ ​their​ ​traditions,​ ​not​ ​many​ ​immerse​ ​the​ ​public into​ ​the​ ​reality​ ​of​ ​their​ ​daily​ ​work.​ ​For​ ​example,​ ​with​ ​the​ ​runway​ ​show​ ​Chanel​ ​Métiers​ ​d’Art, this​ ​iconic​ ​brand​ ​pays​ ​tribute​ ​to​ ​the​ ​artisans​ ​that​ ​offer​ ​their​ ​talents​ ​to​ ​the​ ​Maison.​ ​By organizing​ ​the​ ​show​ ​outside​ ​the​ ​traditional​ ​fashion​ ​schedule,​ ​Chanel​ ​highlights​ ​the​ ​work​ ​of its​ ​ateliers​ ​and​ ​allows​ ​the​ ​public​ ​to​ ​appreciate​ ​the​ ​true​ ​value​ ​of​ ​handcrafted​ ​fashion.
More​ ​than​ ​a​ ​quality​ ​guarantee,​ ​craftsmanship​ ​is​ ​fully​ ​linked​ ​with​ ​the​ ​notion​ ​of​ ​exclusivity​ ​that build​ ​all​ ​the​ ​prestige​ ​of​ ​luxury.​ ​According​ ​to​ ​Elisabeth​ ​Ponsolle​ ​des​ ​Portes​ ​(Comité​ ​Colbert’s Chief​ ​Delegate)​ ​luxury​ ​is​ ​about​ ​“passion​ ​and​ ​requirement”.​ ​No​ ​matter​ ​the​ ​sector​ ​(fashion, hospitality,​ ​jewelry),​ ​the​ ​product​ ​or​ ​service​ ​needs​ ​to​ ​be​ ​perfectly​ ​nursed,​ ​as​ ​the​ ​customer demand​ ​has​ ​nothing​ ​to​ ​compare​ ​with​ ​other​ ​markets.​ ​That​ ​being​ ​said,​ ​some​ ​imperfections could​ ​be​ ​the​ ​proof​ ​of​ ​a​ ​handmade​ ​realization​ ​and​ ​as​ ​well​ ​as​ ​a​ ​guarantee​ ​of​ ​authenticity​ ​and uniqueness.​ ​Uniqueness​ ​represents​ ​a​ ​major​ ​factor​ ​of​ ​luxury​ ​customers​ ​demand,​ ​as​ ​it​ ​is​ ​part of​ ​the​ ​“dream”​ ​that​ ​a​ ​luxury​ ​product​ ​embodies.​ ​However,​ ​we​ ​can​ ​notice​ ​some​ ​exception​ ​to the​ ​rule​ ​for​ ​few​ ​products​ ​as​ ​the​ ​“Neverfull”​ ​bag​ ​of​ ​Louis​ ​Vuitton​ ​as​ ​it​ ​is​ ​no​ ​more​ ​exclusive​ ​nor rare​ ​but​ ​it​ ​remains​ ​a​ ​must​ ​have.
Making people dreaming and living unforgettable experiences is another characteristic that is associated to luxury. Indeed, the story, the dream and the emotions are as much important as the product itself and luxury brands understood it. Today, the luxury clients seek to feel emotions and to live experiences that only luxury can provide. Sitting in a comfortable armchair, being offered champagne and advising in the privacy of a cozy lounge made the purchase​ ​of​ ​a​ ​watch​ ​or​ ​a​ ​jewel​ ​an​ ​unforgettable​ ​experience​ ​and​ ​memory.  French​ ​luxury​ ​has​ ​become​ ​a​ ​master​ ​of​ ​dreams​ ​and​ ​emotions​ ​because​ ​the​ ​French​ ​Maisons have,​ ​above​ ​all,​ ​a​ ​History.​ ​Chanel​ ​would​ ​not​ ​be​ ​Chanel​ ​without​ ​the​ ​Camellia,​ ​the​ ​pearls,​ ​or the​ ​magical​ ​story​ ​of​ ​Gabrielle​ ​Chanel.​ ​The​ ​watchword​ ​of​ ​the​ ​famous​ ​French​ ​Maison​ ​is​ ​to make​ ​thousands​ ​of​ ​people​ ​dreaming​ ​to​ ​show​ ​them​ ​the​ ​refinement​ ​of​ ​Christian​ ​Dior​ ​and​ ​Yves Saint​ ​Laurent​ ​country.
As​ ​Tom​ ​Ford​ ​said,​ ​«​ ​Time​ ​and​ ​silence​ ​are​ ​the​ ​most​ ​luxurious​ ​things​ ​today​ ​»​.​ ​​French​ ​Luxury brands​ ​are​ ​mostly​ ​admired​ ​for​ ​their​ ​long-lasting​ ​history​ ​which​ ​gives​ ​them​ ​a​ ​certain​ ​legitimacy and​ ​influence.​ ​For​ ​a​ ​luxury​ ​brand,​ ​time​ ​is​ ​essential.​ ​Iconic​ ​products​ ​like​ ​the​ ​Burberry​ ​Trench Coat,​ ​initially​ ​created​ ​as​ ​a​ ​military​ ​coat​ ​for​ ​soldiers,​ ​prove​ ​that​ ​time​ ​can​ ​make​ ​your​ ​product even​ ​more​ ​valuable​ ​than​ ​it​ ​was​ ​in​ ​the​ ​first​ ​place.​ ​By​ ​reinventing​ ​and​ ​modernizing​ ​their products,​ ​luxury​ ​brands​ ​show​ ​that​ ​time​ ​is​ ​a​ ​strength.​ ​Wealthy​ ​clients​ ​show​ ​a​ ​real​ ​interest​ ​for heritage​ ​and​ ​tradition​ ​in​ ​French​ ​luxury.​ ​They​ ​are​ ​willing​ ​to​ ​wait​ ​quite​ ​a​ ​long​ ​time​ ​to​ ​possess an​ ​exceptional​ ​luxury​ ​piece.​ ​We​ ​can​ ​take​ ​for​ ​example​ ​the​ ​Hermès​ ​Birkin​ ​Bag​ ​and​ ​the​ long waiting list.​ ​Time​ ​is​ ​patience​ ​and​ ​exigence.​ ​The​ ​more​ ​you​ ​wait,​ ​the​ ​more satisfying​ ​it​ ​will​ ​be​ ​when​ ​you​ ​finally​ ​obtain​ ​this​ ​precious​ ​product.​ ​Time​ ​and​ ​know-how​ ​are linked.​ ​The​ ​wait​ ​for​ ​a​ ​product​ ​can​ ​be​ ​explained​ ​by​ ​the​ ​use​ ​of​ ​rare​ ​materials​ ​and​ ​by craftsmanship.​ ​So​ ​luxury​ ​is​ ​based​ ​on​ ​modernity​ ​and​ ​heritage.
Although​ ​time, ​ ​craftsmanship, ​ ​exclusivity​ ​and​ ​dream​ ​define​ ​the​ ​luxury​ ​well,​ ​luxury​ ​is​ ​a complex​ ​concept​ ​and​ ​its​ ​perception​ ​is​ ​subjective.​ ​With​ ​the​ ​Millennials​ ​generation​ ​who​ ​tends to​ ​get​ ​bored​ ​faster​ ​than​ ​others,​ ​the​ ​luxury​ ​will​ ​maybe​ ​develop​ ​others​ ​characteristics​ ​that​ ​will fit​ ​new​ ​client’s​ ​expectations.
By Clémence TOUBEL,​ ​Coline GAUCI,​ ​Léa BOURDILLAT,​ ​Camille DUBRE​ ​and ​ ​Elise ANASTASIO

#efapmbaluxe #decodingluxury

 

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